Fishing for trout in Moroka Gorge, in the Victorian Alps, is a fine example of the benefits that can arise by combining bushwalking and trout fishing.
Equipment, skills and techniques
Bushwalkers and trout anglers are subjected to a barrage of high tech. equipment. These days, you can be camped 500 km from the nearest coffee shop and still enjoy a cappuccino. But like trout fishing, where the basic objective is to entice a fish onto a hook, bushwalking has some fundamental principles. Lets consider these principles in terms of their relative importance.
Shelter and warmth
Summer snowfalls are not regular occurrences in the Victorian Alps, but they do occur. The snow does not last long; usually one or two days. Even so, the temperatures accompanying these cold blasts often persist for several days, producing freezing winds and heavy rain. In these conditions, it is essential that an angler remain dry and warm. To avoid the onset of hypothermia, (exposure), you will require a lightweight waterproof tent, a warm sleeping bag, a wind and rain proof jacket, thermal underwear and a change of clothes. All these items will be carried on the back, so weight is an important consideration. But in most cases, it should never take priority over safety.
Food and water
In the Victorian Alps you are generally never far from a reliable water source, even during a dry summer. Yet exploring mountain country on foot often means traversing a high ridge or spur before that pristine stream is encountered. For example, the river track from Horseyard Flat to Lummican Gully, at the head of Moroka Gorge, only intersects with the river once. Otherwise, it stays high on the valley wall. Carrying a heavy pack through rough country on a hot day is thirsty business. So give due consideration to the distance between water sources and the amount of water required. Some walkers always carry a litre of water, in spite of the terrain. This is not a bad idea, but every litre is an extra kilogram on the back. Once again, weight is an important consideration.
A T Bone steak and fresh vegetables always make for a hearty campfire meal. The downside of fresh food is its perishability and weight, making dried and preserved foods more practical. Some points to consider when preparing food for a trip are: variation in personal taste: a variety in the type of food taken: the increase in energy output when carrying a heavy pack through rough country, and the ease with which the food can be prepared. A leg of lamb might sound like a great idea but persuading your fishing buddy to carry the Dutch oven is entirely up to you. Balance is the best advice. Protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals need to be considered, and there are no hard or fast rules. On a short demanding trip a person might want to increase the simple or complex carbohydrate in their diet. While on a ramble of several weeks a craving for protein may occur. Hopefully, this craving will be satiated by a nice fat trout. But if not, it might pay to take some extra smoked bacon or salami (in a chunk). If weight is a problem, nuts and legumes are alternative sources of protein. While on longer trips vitamin capsules make good sense.
Navigation
Navigational skills take time to acquire, but you do not have to be a master before experiencing the satisfaction of charting a path through unfamiliar country. Understanding what a topographical map is, and what a compass does, are the places to start. The next step is developing an appreciation of how map and compass relate to one another. For the beginner, even in clear, tracked country, it is a good idea to keep the map and compass handy. This way, you can develop that often referred to yet difficult to explain talent known as: ‘a sense of direction’: an ability to perceive your location in relation to features in the landscape without consistently referring to map or compass. Combine this practical experience with some reading on the subject and the penny soon drops. Simultaneously, take care when entering unfamiliar country. The rugged bush in and around Moroka Gorge can be unforgiving.
How to get there
Approximately 61 km beyond the East Gippsland hamlet of Licola, the Moroka river rises at Wellington Plain, then cuts a torturous path through rugged country before its confluence with the Wonnangatta river. Winter being the exception, large sections of the river are accessible by conventional vehicle. On the Moroka Rd at Horseyard Flat, roughly 19 km beyond Wellington Plain, an angler can still dangle a line without losing sight of the esky. From this point, any further exploration of the Moroka river must occur on foot.
Fishing Moroka Gorge
The track from Horseyard Flat to the one designated campsite at Lummican Gully is well defined and cut into the valley wall. However, it does meet the river at a waterfall before continuing on to the Lummican Gully campsite. Fishing is possible here, but as this deep pool is easily reached on a day walk from Horseyard Flat, it probably receives more attention than other bodies of water in the area. (The water around Horseyard Flat is also well fished, yet on a recent trip two nice brown trout were taken at dusk). Between Horseyard Flat and Lummican Gully, further access to the Moroka river is possible, but it will mean a scrub bash. Also, the further you progress along the foot track, the greater the distance down to the river, making a descent into the scrubby valley impractical after a certain point.
The well defined foot track ends at Lummican Gully, a congested campsite containing enough room for several two person tents. Quite a few brown trout have been taken on worms in the water immediately beneath the campsite, particularly after sunset. To the east is a long stretch of water not easily accessed as the river banks are heavily overgrown. Taking to the water might be one way of fishing this stretch, but even in summer, the Moroka river is very cold.To the west, a long pool with a nice northerly overbank has produced a hungry trout on a celta lure. Beyond this pool, the foot track disintegrates to a rough pad while at all times remaining on the south bank.
Within the gorge proper, that is: the area not including the waterfall between Horseyard Flat and Lummican Gully, there are four waterfalls, each progressively higher than the last. The rough pad continues along the south bank through boulder strewn country. There are many likely pools and cataracts between the first and second waterfalls; at which, the pad heads over a pronounced spur before once again dropping steeply to meet the river. At this point, it is a good idea to take note of this junction before proceeding upstream to the third waterfall or continuing downstream. Later, it will have to be located before a return to Lummican Gully can be made. The junction is not hard to find, but it quickly fades into the surrounding bush; becoming imperceptible until specifically sighted. Resist any temptation to climb through the bluff in the hope of intersecting the pad as it heads back over the spur. The pad is indistinct and it is likely you will find yourself continuing south west up the pronounced spur toward Cromwell Knob.
Rockhopping upstream to the spectacular pool beneath the third waterfall is time consuming, but the effort is worth it. Some small brown trout have been taken in this pool, simply by bobbing lures under rocky overhangs on the north bank. If time permits, it is worthwhile forging your way downstream to the mighty fourth waterfall. It is possible to pitch a tent on a rock platform here, but this would involve carrying a heavy pack through difficult country. As always, make the safety of yourself and your party the prime concern. The fourth waterfall, and the area beyond it, are as remote and difficult as any country that might be encountered in the Victorian alps. Consequently, any traverse requires much experience, a high level of fitness, and a certain grave respect for what is an extreme environment. Alternatively, chart a path back to the junction situated between the third and fourth waterfalls, pick up the rough pad, then return to the Lummican Gully campsite, fishing any likely pools along the way. When leaving Lummican Gully and returning to Horseyard Flat, there is a second track junction just below the first 1000 m contour. This track climbs generally south-east over the ridge and meets the river track once again approximately 1.5 km from your present position. Take note of this track junction and keep well to the east if it is your intention to retrace the river track to Horseyard Flat.
Safety in remote areas
In general, a cautious, even conservative approach to safety is a good idea; particularly during a solo traverse. Taking a short cut by climbing through a cliff should be avoided in favour of the long, safe approach. Similarly, stay well back from the rim of a waterfall, especially when preoccupied casting a lure or composing a photograph. Note any changes in the weather. During the spring thaw or periods of sustained rainfall, river levels rise fast. Moroka Gorge is a congested environment leaving little room to manoeuvre, especially when camped in its lower reaches. In spring, snakes appear: Alpine copperheads, Browns and Tigers. No need to be petrified by snakes. They are sensitive to vibration and usually disappear long before a visitor becomes aware of their presence. But early in the season, and on overcast days, snakes are slow movers. If encountered, a snake should be given space and time to move on. In turn, this provides an opportunity to observe a potentially dangerous, yet unfairly maligned reptile in its natural habitat. It also helps to carry one or two compression bandages in a small first aid kit and have some idea how to apply these. You’ll probably never use them, but its reassuring to know you can if first aid for snake bite is required.
Once again, when entering a remote area it helps to have a guiding principle on safety. Before undertaking an activity, whether it be fishing a particular pool or climbing to a highpoint at sunset, a little prior consideration, along with a cautious approach to the task, will see you safe at the end of your trip.
Summary
The hybridisation of various recreational activities is becoming increasingly popular. Of course, this reflects a broad trend in society. Perhaps a higher standard of living, with less time to enjoy it, has resulted in a desire to compress several activities into one, and by doing so, create a new activity. Snowboarding is one example of an activity successfully hybridised from skiing, skateboarding and surfing. Trout fishing and bushwalking are yet to become more than the sum of their parts. Even so, the desire for new frontiers of experience, coupled with lightweight equipment and the acquisition of new skills, means trout fishing and bushwalking now have an added dimension; one that does not cancel out enjoyment of either activity. As for Moroka Gorge, it is a multi dimensional environment that inspires beauty and terror, awe, and a profound sense of remoteness. Also, there are some decent brown trout to be caught in its waters as well.
The prevailing view is that high altitude rivers close to their headwater do not contain large trout. Recently, a fishing buddy of mine worked a river close to its source at 1000 metres, and this produced a 50 cm brown trout at dusk, then a 40 cm hen brown next morning. With fish this size, it won’t be long before those who love the thrill of the chase crank up their search for the Backcountry trout.
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